Into the field, take two

New plan: trying again to go to Wales and Ikpek tomorrow. Same plan as we had today, but just shorted a day. Hope for good weather for both getting out of here and returning to Nome via Kotzebue on Saturday if the weather holds.

Travel limbo

Today has been both exhausting and disappointing. And it's only 3 o'clock.

Obviously, since I'm writing this, I'm not out in the field like I was supposed to be. Everything started out as planned this morning -- we were out of the bunkhouse by 6am, on the road, and heading 80 miles into the fog to a landing strip about 30 miles from the preserve.

When we arrived and I called the office by satellite phone however, the first thing my supervisor said was, "it's not happening." The flight was a no-go, due to the weather. Cloud ceiling was too low, and apparently it was even worse in Kotzebue where our pilot was coming from. Our only back-up plan was to try again tomorrow.

The problem was that we had to pick up some other people coming in from the preserve, which presented logistical details, so for about the next 4 hours we waited around at the landing strip calling back and forth on the sat phone to figure out contingency plans. For a while we thought we were just going to camp overnight there, since we had all our gear with us anyway, but that plan was called off for reasons still unknown to me.

Long story short, we were called back to Nome, so we crammed into a couple cars with the other people who did make it in, and now here I am.

The most frustrating part to me is that two of our team members made it to Wales (they took a commercial airline, not a charter like we were) and are doing the interview right now as I type this. I am SO sad I'm not there right now. I wanted to see the village and meet the reindeer herder, and learn how to do this type of interview and whatnot. I've been a good sport on the outside, but inside I am really, really upset about it!

Hopefully we'll get to spend tomorrow night in Wales, but of course I won't get to meet the reindeer herder, and all we'll probably be doing is going around taking photos and videos, which seems strange since we'll kind of be there on our own now. Not that we're exploiting the village, but it almost feels that way when we're not there really on their terms. I don't know.

So right now my part of the team (me and the two media people from Utah) are kind of in travel limbo, waiting for logistics support to work everything out. I may not even get to go at all. I've learned to expect the unexpected, and even though no-go flights happen all the time, I can't help but wish this one had been maybe planned out a little better.

But, so it goes. We're still packed up and ready to go if we're given the okay, but right now it's not looking too good.

Into the Unknown

Super stylish flight suit

I don't even know where to start! Tomorrow at an ungodly hour of the morning, I'm taking my first trip into the Alaskan backcountry for the work assignment I've mentioned before to the village of Wales and Ikpek Lagoon.

Preparations swung into full gear today when our NPS media specialists arrived from Utah. We had a long meeting to go over flight procedures, gear allocation, filming and photography shoots in the village, and pretty much every logistical detail you can imagine.

To give you an idea of what I'm going into, the village has 200 people and no running water, and a mainly subsistence lifestyle and culture. They recently heard about our upcoming visit, and supposedly are very excited that "the white people" are coming into town. I almost feel like some antiquated explorer heading into goodness only knows what!

Went to The Shop (our NPS gear warehouse) today and picked up everything I need, hopefully. Full flight suit, survival vest, gloves, helmet, Osprey pack, bear canister, dry bags, North Face tent, camp stove, water jug, and various other odds and ends. Now that I'm all packed up, my gear load comes to about 65 lbs, including my camera equipment needed for my job and my water supply for 3 days. Eek! Considering we can only fly with 800lbs on the 206 Super Cub we're taking, I hope that's not too much.

We leave Wales at 4pm and fly to the nearby Ikpek Lagoon in the Preserve to base camp with a team of archaeologists there for two nights. That's where all the camping gear is needed, as we will be spending time there getting more photos and footage.

Each day we will check in by satellite phone to Denali Dispatch and our central office in Nome just to confirm we haven't been eaten by bears. We're equipped with something like 3 different tracking and emergency locator devices, and prepared to be stranded  for at least 2 additional days in the case of an emergency or weather preventing us from getting out. It's pretty nerve-wracking to think of all the safeguards we need, but at the same time I'm very glad we have them; although I'll be totally out of communication with the rest of the world, theoretically someone will know where we are at all times.

So that's where I'll be this weekend -- somewhere in the arctic circle, chilling with the Inupiats, archaeologists, and photographers, pretending that I know what I'm doing. Wish me luck!

Overflight trip

Yesterday was our long-awaited overflight tour of Bering Land Bridge National Preserve, and this time it went off without a hitch. 

Our ride was a Cessna 208 Caravan, which just fit out 8 staff members, plus the pilot and copilot. I was seated in the front left, directly behind the pilot. 

Our excited crew

Take off was smooth and the ascent to our 500 ft altitude was thrilling. With a huge window all to myself, I felt like I was just hanging in the air, bobbing over bumps in the air turbulence and leaning into the tight banking maneuvers around mountains and hills.

Banking out towards Salmon Lake

The mountains

Grizzly bears

Our first exciting find was a pair of grizzly bears -- the first bears I've ever seen! -- galomping across the tundra. The pilot did three tight turns over them so we could get photos, but unfortunately mine didn't come out well, as I was battling the churning of my stomach and the shakiness of the plane.

After that, my stomach turned for the worse and after the flight I found out that pretty much did everyone else in as well. At the time though, I assumed I was the only one feeling sick, so I toughed it out in silence. Fortunately, the scenery was spectacular enough to keep me distracted.

Kuzitrin River

 The Kuzitrin River was fascinating -- strange curves and oxbows formed serpentine patterns through the tundra, some parts of the river not even connected. Amazing geology and hydrology going on there.

Kuzitrin River bend

Lava fields

Our next landmark was the Imuruk lava fields. The black once-molten rock stretched for miles, as far as the eye could see.

Our wing, perpendicular to the ground

 Above is the main lava dome, from where most of the lava in the field came out.

Serpentine Bunkhouse 

 This is where I'll be staying starting on Monday. It has its own landing strip, and a bathhouse where the hot water from the spring is pumped. I'll be helping with maintenance and hiking to get photos of the preserve.

 The rock formations around Serpentine are called "tors" and are made from volcanic activity underground. It somehow pushes up the rocks in this area.

Plane wreck on a hillside

BELA is also known for its maar lakes. We have the largest maars in the world, which are formed from lava  underground coming in contact with the permafrost layer and creating a violent explosion.

A moose

Along the bank of one of the lakes was a moose! Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a good picture of this guy either, but it was cool to see.

Research camp on Devil Mountain Lakes

Devil Mountain Lakes, THE largest maars in the world

 From the maar lakes, we headed to the coast of the Chuckchi Sea. This was a long stretch of very interesting wetland formations, small native villages, and we even got to see the Russian island of Big Diomede through the incoming fog.

Unfortunately we were running behind schedule so we had to cut out our last flyover and head back to Nome through the mountains.

Heading into the mountains

More mountains

Glacial valley

By the time we landed, everyone was quite queasy, but I think we all enjoyed the trip immensely -- I know I certainly did! I feel like I understand the preserve a lot better now, and can't wait to explore it more in-depth this summer.

Fortunately, I will starting this week so I'll be totally out of touch after tomorrow for about a week and a half.  I'll try to post at least one more update before I leave, and then lots more when I get back.

Weekend explorations

This weekend we were fortunate enough to have the use of a car, so 4 other women and I (3 coworkers and 1 of their friends) planned on camping out at Salmon Lake, a local campground about 40 miles north of Nome. 

Unfortunately, the weather deteriorated quickly by the time we left, and when we arrived at Salmon Lake, it was pouring rain and the air was thick with helicopter-sized mosquitoes. Nonetheless, we walked around a bit, threw a fishing line in, and explored for a while to see if the weather would turn.

We hoped to camp in the grassy field next to this old abandoned cabin. It was creepy enough for any horror movie, but not too creepy for me to climb inside and check it out.

The inside was quite dilapidated and pretty much as sketchy as you can get. Broken glass, strange odors, rusted cans, and insulation littered the floor, walls and ceiling.

 The second floor was even worse, so I didn't spend much time up there for fear of the floor falling out.

Bird nest on top floor window

Well, long story short, we decided to cut our losses and enjoy a leisurely road trip back to Nome, to sleep in our warm, dry, mosquitoless beds. Even though I wouldn't have minded camping, I was happy with the decision. 

Part of the large herd

So the next we slept in, had a big pancake breakfast, and then headed out on the Teller Highway, the third of Nome's 3 roads out of town (all of which inevitably dead-end in a town or randomly in the tundra). Our first stop was to see a huge herd of muskox at the edge of town.

Along our way, we stopped at a few places that looked interesting, first a nice slope tundra where the clouds were finally breaking.

Possible wolf scat

Interesting tundra ground

Flock of redpolls (?)

We drove further, stopping at a few rivers to throw a line in. Saw lots of salmon (both pinks and reds), but none were biting, so we eventually headed back.

Our last stop before returning to the bunkhouse was a massive abandoned dredge on the edge of town by the mining area at West Beach. One of the women I was with had been inside of it before and wanted to show us.

I think these are sluice boxes

It brought back memories of exploring old mine shafts in South Dakota a few years ago, only this was much more brightly lit and obviously a well-used hangout for various folks. We found no one inside though, and had the whole vessel to ourselves to explore the depths of the strange chambers and rickety catwalks.

Inside the top level

Creepy sign

Flash photo down a pitch-black hatch

All in all, it was a wonderful weekend, although I don't have time right now to describe it all in depth. If you want to know more, just ask, but otherwise, enjoy the pics.

Aviation training

Over the last two days at work I feel like I've significantly increased in my preparedness for life in the Alaskan wild -- although I am still undoubtedly oblivious to the many things that can and will go wrong. Nonetheless, B3 Aviation was probably one of the most interesting courses I have ever taken.

We went over basic aviation terminology, like point-to-point (flying from one place to another), high reconnaissance (such as aerial surveys or herding), and special use (any sort of off-airport landing). Most of my work will be point-to-point and special use. I learned how to use a flight plan and flight tracking, as well as the types of technologies in the plane and procedures used to relay information back to central dispatch in Denali, plus the importance of briefings and knowing the controls of the plane in case something happens to the pilot.

A large part of the training was essential survival skills and basically how to not die in a plane crash. A lot of it seems basic but I didn't really think about it before. Some of these include noting which way the door handle turns in case you get flipped upside-down, where the plane's survival kit is, and even down to what clothes you can wear on government bush planes (only cotton, wool, leather, or silk -- no synthetics, since they will melt to your skin if the plane is on fire).

As per government regulations, we are required to wear a full fire-retardant flight suit, survival vest, helmet, and gloves for any special use flight, such as the one I'm doing next week. The survival vest contains three methods for making a fire; a knife; flotation device; compass; whistle; rope; mirror or laser signaler; and basic first aid supplies. The idea is that in the event of a crash, all you will escape with is what you are wearing, so the vest can theoretically keep you alive for a couple days. The on-board survival kit, if that makes it through a crash, contains a more extensive selection of the same items, plus rabbit snares, a 20-gauge shotgun, and fishing lines. Only in Alaska!

As you would expect, even in ideal circumstances about the minimum amount of time for a rescue to arrive is 4 hours -- and that's IF they know your exact location and weather conditions are good. If a flight plan is not filed or the flight isn't tracked, it can take anywhere from 38 to 86 hours or more for help to arrive if they can find you.

But the biggest take-home message from the whole training was to keep a calm and positive attitude, for both the pilot and the crew members. In fact, our trainer emphasized that on any flight we should see ourselves as active crew members and not just passengers, be willing to refuse a flight if we feel unsafe, or take control of a situation. Even though you can never be prepared for what a crash will be like, the most essential tools you have are your attitude, your decision to live, and your ability to take responsibility for yourself.

I'm more excited than ever now to get on my first bush plane next week. For all the flying I'll be doing this summer, I definitely feel like I have a better grasp now for what to expect and how I can fulfill an active role on each flight.

Salmon catch!

This is both the best and worst sequence of pictures I have ever seen, but hopefully you'll get as good a laugh out of it as I did. In fact, it represents a very proud (though not solemn!) moment in my life:

My first salmon catch!

After work today, I biked out to the Snake River with my coworkers to do some salmon fishing. Word around town was that they were jumping today. Sure enough, the few fishermen along the banks were catching salmon every few minutes.

We only have two rods, so we were all taking turns. Eventually I decided to give it a shot, and within about 5 minutes, I felt the telltale tug on my line.  Everyone got excited and started shouting advice to me: "Keep your rod up!" "Easy, play it, play it!" "Go slow!"

It was a small female but I was ecstatic nonetheless. I pulled it in but it slipped off the hook before I was ready to slit its gills. That's when the ridiculous and slightly embarrassing photo sequence happened.

I pinned it down on the rocks after it slipped out of my hands though, and one of my coworkers quickly slit its gills so I could bleed it out in the water. Although I've never done any of this myself before, I've been watching closely for the past few weeks and sort of have an idea of the way it works.

After that I took the fillet knife and with some guidance I slit open the stomach and cleanly gutted it into the water; I felt a little bad -- she was chock-full of eggs! We used some of them for bait, but it didn't really work. After removing the head, I rinsed it in the icy cold river and bagged it up. We fished a little longer, and then came back to fillet them.

None of us are really good at filleting yet, but I watched someone do it first before I tried my hand at it. Once again, I surprised myself as my fillets came out better than I expected. They're not stellar by any means, but I got almost all the meat and as few bones as I could manage without making it raggedy or too thin. Tomorrow we'll grill them up with some veggies.


It's hard to get motivated after work sometimes, but the opportunities to learn and try new things here are endless. Plus, it's afternoons like these that really make life here so worth it.